The Moselle Valley (Mosel in German) is known for its meandering river, steep vineyards, charming (farming) villages and medieval castles. In this blog post I share some of the highlights of this famous wine growing region, which is located between the Eifel and the Hunsrück in south-western Germany.
- Beilstein
- Bruttig-Fankel
- Cochem
- Koblenz
- Burg Eltz
- Cochem Castle
Villages & Cities along the Moselle
Beilstein
Let's start with what some call the prettiest village along the Moselle, Beilstein. It is even called the "Sleeping Beauty"... This lovely little town, with only around 150 inhabitants, is indeed extremely charming. The half-timbered houses are built along cobblestone streets which are winding up the hill. As icing on the cake there is a 13th century castle on top of that hill from where you have a nice view over the town of Beilstein and the surrounding area.
The village is easy to reach by car, bike and even boat. Luckily the village itself is car-free so you can walk around peacefully and without annoying street noise. Just make sure you wear the right footwear as you are going to encounter some stairs. There are several hotels, restaurants, weinstubes (wine bars) and an ice cream shop where you can extend your visit a bit.
At Restaurant Alte Stadtmauer we felt like we were in Italy for a moment. The attractive terrace is overgrown with grape vines, the tables are set nicely, the view over the Moselle is stunning and best of all, the food is delicious. Here we enjoyed a very tasty vegetarian salad with feta and olives in the evening sun. In Germany I always like to order an additional dish with bratkartoffeln, because in my opinion they master the art of fried/baked potatoes!
Bruttig-Fankel
Bruttig-Fankel may not have grand sights, but for us it was the ideal base from which we discovered the region. It is beautifully located at the Moselle with a wide grassy area along it, which is perfect for recreational purposes like swimming, canoeing, playing badminton or just relaxing with a good book. From here there are also several hiking options ranging from short and easy walking routes to longer and more challenging ones. The most famous one is the Moselsteig Trail with a total distance of 365 kilometers, divided over 24 stages. Bruttig-Fankel is located on the 18th stage.
There are several winegrowers and wine merchants based in this village, so you will regularly come across a (vintage) tractor in the streets.
Be sure to take the time to walk through the village with its beautiful half-timbered houses which mostly date from the 17th century.
We were lucky that the annual wine festival took place at Altes Rathaus during our stay. Keep an eye on their agenda to see when the next editions take place (usually in June or July).
Fog occurs regularly in the Moselle Vally which gives, especially during the early morning hours, a mysterious feel to the landscape. During our stay in June we got up at 06:00 to be able to witness it and to enjoy a quiet morning walk along the river.
The terrace of food truck Pier 58 is a great place to end your day with a glass of Moselle wine or a local craft beer. On the menu they have tasty burgers (meat and veggie) and some snacks.
Cochem
The most touristy place of the region is probably Cochem. And on below picture it is easy to see why. Their greatest asset is this beautiful castle on top of the hill (more about that later in this blog post). Cochem is also the place from which many river cruises depart or make a stopover.
Real vines decorate the narrow streets of Cochem.
The Marktplatz (main market square) with the Martinsbrunnen (Martin's Fountain) is definitely a must see when in Cochem. Don't expect a large square, but an intimate one with beautiful old buildings around it. Here you wil also see the Rathaus (town hall) which dates back to 1739.
You will have a great view over the market square while drinking coffee at Cochemer Kaffeerösterei. In our opinion this is the best place to get a good cup of specialty coffee in the Moselle Valley. Here they attach great importance to quality and transparency. Green beans are purchased from coffee dealers who are in close contact with the farmers and who guarantee these coffee growers a fair price for their produce. In addition, the owner regularly visits the coffee estates himself. Besides coffee they also offer a selection of hot chocolate, tea and cold drinks.
Koblenz
At the point where father Rhine and mother Moselle meet you will find the city of Koblenz. This 2.000 year-old city is also known for the second largest (Ehrenbreitstein) fortress of Europe. Another landmark is Die Vier Türme (the 'Four Towers') in the historic city center. Technically these are not towers but an ensemble of buildings with oriel windows, but despite that they are a lust for the eye. Depicted below you see one of them:
The Kurfürstliches Schloss (Electoral Palace) was once a residence for royalty, but nowadays its a place for the public with halls for banquets and conferences. The garden is ideal for a short stroll if you are in the neighbourhood.
In the heart of Koblenz's old town you will find Der Jesuitenplatz (the Jesuits Square), which is named after the religious order which have been in Koblenz for nearly two centuries.
Be careful when crossing the Willi-Hörter Platz, because you can suddenly be spat on... But no worries, the water this little boy spits every few minutes is just clean fountain water. This Schängel Fountain refers to the German-French children who were born between 1794 and 1813, the time of the 20-year affiliation of the city of Koblenz to France. These children were often named 'Jean', which developed over the years into "Schang" and eventually into "Schängel". Nowadays every born and raised Koblenzer call themselves a Schängel with pride.
The little man is even so famous that he appears on manhole covers.
'Das Deutches Eck' or the German Corner is the actual place where the Rhine and Moselle rivers confluence. I wasn't able to make many pictures here, because at this location the preparations for a huge beer fest were in full swing.
Uniquely shaped roofs made by real craftsmanship.
When the clock of Saint Florin's market strikes the hour or half hour, the Augenroller (Eye Roller) rolls his eyes back and forth at the beat of the pendulum and even sticks out his tongue...
During the 1930s and 1940s a lady called Annemarie Stein made her living by selling sweets and peppermint along the streets and in bars/restaurants of Koblenz. She became known by the name Das Pfefferminzje (the Peppermint Woman). She had a great heart for stray animals that she tried to take care of. To honour her, she and her cat are immortalized in this statue.
Opposite of the statue you will find a café that is named after her, Café Bistro Pfefferminzje.
This (Koblenz's only organic certified) restaurant is situated in a charming building with lovely garden and terrace. It's the perfect place for breakfast, lunch or just a cup of coffee.
At Kraut & Rüben you can get delicious vegetarian bowls with homemade sauces. You create your own bowl by choosing a base, a main ingredient, a sauce and a crunch on top. Several vegan muffins, brownies and cakes are offered daily as dessert, or to combine with a cup of coffee or tea.
To all chocolate and coffee lovers > don't skip Cahua the secret chocolate lab!
The philosophy of owner Franka is: organic, sustainable, clean label, no additions and no fuzz. She is one of the first manufacturers in Germany who produces pure handcrafted chocolates form bean to bar. The cacao beans come from trusted farmers in Costa Rica whom she has visited herself. On the menu are several types of hot chocolate, coffee, tea, juice and sweets. In our opinion a must visit.
Castles in the Moselle Valley
Burg Eltz
Hidden in the woods next to a small river lies Burg Eltz, the medieval fairytale castle of the Moselle Valley. To this day, the castle has been inhabited by descendants of the Eltz family for 900 years. And it is now in the hands of the 34th (!) generation of the family.
The castle can be visited on an interesting guided tour which takes around 35 to 40 minutes. During the tour you learn about the history of the castle, its inhabitants and about the original furnishings which have passed the test of time of many centuries. Taking pictures of the interior is not allowed, so unfortunately I can't show any of it here, but I can say that I was amazed by the ornamental murals, tapestries and ancient wooden furniture.
Several hiking paths lead to the entrance of the castle ranging from easy (15 minutes walk from the carpark) to challenging (stage 20 of the Moselsteig). I can recommend the first walk, as it's a beautiful forest and because you will be treated with a great view of the castle along the way. But if necessary you can use the shuttle bus which runs every 10 minutes from the carpark to the castle.
Cochem Castle
Walk through 1.000 years of history at Reichsburg Cochem (Cochem Castle) while overlooking the city and its hilly surroundings. Over many centuries the caste has undergone countless transformations and extensions but unfortunately has fallen into dispair during the years. So at the end of the 19th century, only ruins remained. Louis Ravené (a wealthy businessman) bought the remains in 1868 to rebuild and it restore it to its former glory. Today the castle is owned by the city of Cochem and open to the public.
A 40 minute (very interesting and amusing) guided tour leads you through the beautifully decorated rooms and (dining) halls with Renaissance and Baroque furniture.
You can easily reach the castle by a short walk (between 15 and 30 minutes) from the city center of Cochem. But please note, the castle is at an altitude of 100 meters, so the road goes up. Direct access by car or motorcycle is not possible, but there is a shuttle bus for those who need/want to avoid the walk uphill. Even in that case you have to walk 150 meters on a steep stretch of road. I promise, it's all worth it!
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